I have the first pair of completed pants with my adjusted pattern, and I am perplexed. Even with all the changes I made, the fit appears to be no better and no worse than any pair of RTW in my closet.
This is the pattern, B5614:
This is the pattern, B5614:
I made the full belly adjustment mentioned last week. After reading a few more fit guides, I decided on a fisheye adjustment for the back. The explanation is here. Due to my recent experience, I won’t post a picture of it, but the site is worth a visit.
This is what my pattern looked like after the adjustment:
The overlapped areas are supposed to adjust for the fish eye (called that because the amount of material removed is slightly eye-shaped).I apologize for the awful photo quality of the finished pants. I actually thought it would be better if I used the computer cam, but obviously these are much worse than my usual point and shoot. But I think we can at least see the general outlines from these photos.
Front: 
It looks like I needed more than the little ½ inch wedge adjustment I made for the full belly. According to most guides, vertical folds “point to fullness”, meaning the fullest part of the body.
It looks like I needed more than the little ½ inch wedge adjustment I made for the full belly. According to most guides, vertical folds “point to fullness”, meaning the fullest part of the body.Side: 
Oddly, the front looks like a good fit from this angle, but the back looks much too big. The excess fabric under my flat seat puffs out since it has nowhere to go.
Oddly, the front looks like a good fit from this angle, but the back looks much too big. The excess fabric under my flat seat puffs out since it has nowhere to go.Back: 
This is the source of my perplexity: the folds of excess fabric are in the exact location of my fisheye adjustment. Did I not remove enough of the pattern in this area, or was it the wrong alteration altogether?
Summary: I’m not disgusted with the pants, as they are a beautiful, comfortable cotton pique, and the fit isn’t any worse than I’m used to. So I will get some wear from them when I’m not using them as a study piece for the next set of adjustments.
What’s next? I think the pattern is slightly too large from the hips down, so I will shave it down one size in the legs, and increase both the belly and seat adjustments. If that doesn’t help I will at least know I’m moving in the wrong direction, and I’ll have to go back to the drawing board.
Any suggestions?
This is the source of my perplexity: the folds of excess fabric are in the exact location of my fisheye adjustment. Did I not remove enough of the pattern in this area, or was it the wrong alteration altogether?Summary: I’m not disgusted with the pants, as they are a beautiful, comfortable cotton pique, and the fit isn’t any worse than I’m used to. So I will get some wear from them when I’m not using them as a study piece for the next set of adjustments.
What’s next? I think the pattern is slightly too large from the hips down, so I will shave it down one size in the legs, and increase both the belly and seat adjustments. If that doesn’t help I will at least know I’m moving in the wrong direction, and I’ll have to go back to the drawing board.
Any suggestions?
Katrina
The fabric does look lovely! And the fact that you will both wear them and use them for study means that the project was a win. Honestly, it doesn't look to me as if you need a full belly adjustment! What would it do for the fit if you left that out? I think that you did a great job!
ReplyDeleteI am really of no use when it comes to making pants, as I've never done it. I am enjoying your process, however, so perhaps I will feel inspired to try!
Wish I could offer a suggestion. My one and only pair of trousers to date were hopeless.
ReplyDeleteHello! I d would like to know about your further progress with the pants. If the center back is too low it means you need more back crotch lenth, maybe use swayback pattern adjustment. Excess fabric problem -maybe a take in of the crotch lenth by the back thighs would help. I m experimenting with pant pattern too now. I m getting pretty close to the good fit, but also still have to do some adjustments and still thinking which adjutments are the right for my (not average) figure.
ReplyDelete