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RJR Summer Solstice (2010) fabrics
I’ve had these coordinating quilting cottons in the stash for many months. The brilliant colors are just the thing for a hospital patient! I did not do any fancy cutting and piecing; just one yard of the stripes on one side and a yard of the flowers on the other.
1" poly batting inside
I tufted it with turquoise/teal cotton embroidery thread.
It was a quick project that I hope will have magical healing powers (or at least bring a smile)!
Katrina
green base/silver pile
This velvet was unmarked as to fiber content, so I did a few tests. I had a suspicion it might be acetate, and sure enough it dissolved into a gray slurry in a little bit of acetone nail polish remover. It’s probably a blend with something like nylon, so I used the low heat setting on my iron.
My dress “pattern” is really a composite of several shapes from different patterns. This was my general idea:
left: from Piperlime, here and here; right: from Shopbop, here and here
I wanted a simple round neck, long sleeves, and no waist band. I started with a straight dress pattern for stretch knits and cut it large to accommodate this non-stretch fabric. Later, I decided it was too loose, and added a back zipper to allow for a bit of fitting at the waist. I made the skirt long and flared for ease of walking. At this point I saw that I could have used any one of a dozen patterns for long dresses with flared skirts and back zippers. I’m just not good at going straight from point A to point B without lengthy detours of discovery.
I bound the neck with a bias strip of the velvet. I love how the angle of the crush pattern makes it look like it’s twisted around. I could never have gotten that effect if I did it on purpose!
I finished the seams with tape so that I wouldn’t have to worry about shedding all over myself and the furniture. I had just used up the last of a light mint green on the shoulders and sleeves when my order of vintage rayon binding in “bayleaf” arrived from Mattiecakes. It was a perfect color for this dress, and I had enough to do the side seams and hem.
And here is the finished product. The fabric changes color from dark gray with inside light (left) to reflective silver and green in natural light (right).
So, what do we think? Modern and interesting? Time traveler from the 70s? Ready for the Renaissance Faire?
Katrina
Pumpkin Pecan Surprise Pie, a winner at the 2011 National Pie Championships
Wikipedia exhorts us not to confuse National Pie Day with National Pi Day, which is March 14. Apparently pi enthusiasts like to celebrate their day with pie, and in the past this has caused some disagreeable confrontations with pie purists.
Our household is still experiencing a surplus of cake, and therefore we will not have any actual pie on National Pie Day. I do have my sights set on another new pie recipe though, so we might see that in coming weeks.
Happy National Pie Day to all!
Katrina
There was even an example of Sant' Angelo’s Chameleon Dress, a slinky knit maxi with long, attached sashes that could be wrapped in many different configurations, much like the modern infinity dress. More about Sant' Angelo and the exhibit here.
And what’s a birthday without cake? We have cake and more cake. I asked for an almond-flavored cake, and the Piemaker outdid himself.
The first was a dense, flat cake made in a round cake pan.
recipe here
recipe here
This one also looks quite plain, but it’s poured in three layers before baking: cake batter, almond filling, then cake batter. It’s an excellent combination with the sweet almond custard middle sandwiched between the buttery, crisp edges of the cake.
We can't decide which one is better!
Have a lovely weekend, everyone!
Katrina
Marc Jacobs revisits velvet annually (2010, 2011)
Nanette Lepore loves velvet (FW 2010)
I, of course, usually catch up with what’s in or out a few years too late. But it doesn’t matter much, since I don’t revamp my wardrobe annually, or at all. I still have clothes from 1985. I just know they’re going to be back in style soon.
And I’ve always loved velvet, but it seemed a bit too cocktail or evening wear for many years. Now everyone’s using velvet and velveteen for just about everything. I’ve seen button down shirts and camis, miniskirts and leggings, pants, coats, hats, and shoes in these shiny pile fabrics. And we mustn’t forget the recent love affair between active sportswear and its version of velvet: velour.
So I decided it was time to dive in.
Embossed poly velvet from Sew What's New
Hand-dyed cotton velvet from Mermaids Beads on etsy
For sewing and care, cotton velvet is the easiest, because it can be pressed without making indentations in the pile.
Hand-dyed silk rayon velvet from Raes Rags on etsy
I like the silk-rayon velvets best, because of their drape, sheen, and unusual colors. Because rayon is a plant fiber and silk is an animal fiber, they each attract and absorb different types of pigments. This allows manufacturers and textile artists to create incredible iridescent fabrics. I love it when science comes together with art. The possibilities are limitless!
Crushed velvet is easy to make – if you’ve ever accidentally crushed a velvet skirt or dress, you know just how easy it is. But if you have plain velvet that you want to add interest to, you can use your steam iron to set in wrinkles and creases in different patterns. Just crunch up the fabric with your hand and iron over the folds and wrinkles. This works best with silk/rayon velvet since you can use the high heat setting.
Claire Schaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide informs me that velvet is marred by pins, creeps during stitching, frays badly, and must be dry-cleaned. Cripes! Fortunately the green velvet I’m working with is already crushed, and it’s been through the washing machine, so not much more can happen to it.
Like most pile fabrics, velvet sheds from all cut edges. My cutting table and sewing machine are completely covered in fuzz. For seam finishes Claire suggests pinked, zigzag, serged, bound, overcast, Hong Kong, or taped. I’m going with seam binding tape.
My first velvet garment is almost done, pictures coming soon!
Katrina
My entire year will be contained in 3 ½ x 6 inches
Things sure have changed. When I was working full time in finance, I would get the next year’s Week-At-A-Glance as soon as it was available, usually in September or October, as things had to be scheduled up to a year in advance. My daily columns were packed from 7 am to 8 pm, and sometimes I even wrote in my lunch break so that I wouldn’t forget to eat. I had to use a 9 x 12 page-sized planner just so I’d have enough space for everything. I’d lug it around with my computer and a bunch of files in my big briefcase or a rolling cart.
One year, everyone converted to hand-held PDAs and we all thought we were on the cutting edge. (This was some time before the cell phone became a music player, camera, calendar, clock, and web interface all in one.) After the stupid devices had to be resynched repeatedly to our computers, we quickly lost interest and returned to the old fashioned binder or booklet planners.
I retired in 2006 and continued to use a huge weekly planner for the rest of that year and the next. I was going to school full time, and I filled the pages with class times, due dates, exams, and breaks.
When I went to get the 2008 calendar, however, I realized that I could easily get as much use out of a smaller planner. I switched to the 7 x 9 size, which got me through the end of classes and a couple of internships. But by the end of 2009, I realized that other than the occasional dental appointment and dinner date, my planner pages were blank.
So for 2010, I stepped down to the 5 x 8 size. Now the days were only 9 hours long, and ended at 5 pm! My 2010 planner was soon filled with goals and progress milestones for the book I was writing, some art workshops, and travel dates. But my 2011 planner ended the year almost completely empty.
As I stood in the calendars and planners aisle in Staples yesterday, I decided that although I’m not yet ready to dispense with a portable calendar altogether, I can definitely go down another size. They had week-at-a-glance calendars in little stapled booklets only 3½ by 6 inches. There are no printed times, but each day only has 7 lines.
The years are shrinking too.
I guess I could make this into some important philosophical message about aging (Lowered expectations? Diminished capacity? Running out of time?), but the bottom line is, I’m just so relieved and happy not to be working, and not to have that burdensome schedule and insanely long to-do list wearing me down any longer.
I hope that whatever you’re doing today, you can break away from the endless meetings, task lists, deadlines, and deliverables on your calendar. Take some deep breaths, look out the window, and think of something wonderful.
Katrina
clockwise from top: unmarked, Calif, Calif, USA
clockwise from upper right: USA, Brush, USA
Haeger (l), Hull (r)
Many of the containers had been used to hold plants at some point, and had the stains to prove it. After cleaning them up with soft brushes, mild soap and diluted vinegar, I decided just to use them for display and not expose them to further damage. I’m a strong proponent of using vintage items for their intended purpose, but in this particular case I thought I’d get more enjoyment from them if they stayed clean.
Some are more like serving dishes than planters (Stangl (top), unmarked (bottom))
And some are more like flower pots (l to r, Coronet, unmarked, Brush)
clockwise from top: unmarked, Haeger, Redwing, Regal
You can see that the collection leans heavily toward green. I have found that the majority of vintage planters available (in my price range) are green, although the potters made many colors. For whatever reason, those other colors are much rarer now, and accordingly more collected and more expensive.
Now you have an inkling of why my house is so crowded with just two of us. We've just touched on a few of my collections, and we haven't even started on the Piemaker's!
On a completely different topic, I hope everyone saw Peter's post at MPB yesterday, in which he blasts away at unflattering dress shapes over the years. I was thrilled to note that one of my favorite caftan patterns was near the top of his list. Words like horror, stupid, nightmare, and wrong were tossed about with gleeful abandon. How I wanted to comment on that post! Sadly, I've been unable to post comments on some blogs for the last few days, so Peter's challenge goes unanswered. No doubt there will be future controversies to participate in.
Thank you for stopping by to share some vintage appreciation!
Katrina
They were delivered in 3 business days!
More fabrics:All are 45 to 48 inches wide.
These are still shiny and stiff with whatever finishes they used. Contrary to my usual approach of washing everything as soon as it comes through the door, I will leave these unwashed and packaged, as they are so neatly folded and take up little space. Since they have all their wrappers and labels still on, I won’t forget to wash them before sewing.
I don’t feel any remorse for this rather extravagant purchase! My local fabric warehouse occasionally carries an African wax print or two, but they are few and far between. The fabrics from Middlesex are a long-term investment, since I won’t be able to use them all up in the near future, but I think I got some very unusual items for a very good price.
Katrina
A Tequila Sunrise was my inspiration, partly because I wear the robe at sunrise, and also because I love the color combination: violet red to orange to peachy-yellow.
The first step was easy – I just dyed the entire robe in the washing machine using yellow with a drop of red for the lightest color. The remaining color layers had to be done in the sink, and that’s when things got difficult. I had nothing from which to suspend the robe, so I had to hold it up with one hand while stirring the dye with the other. I submerged the lower half of the robe and sleeves into a red-orange mixture for 20 minutes, and then rinsed it in cold water. Finally I dunked the bottom 8 to 10 inches into a violet dye and let it absorb upwards. At this point I realized what should have been obvious: purple and yellow make BROWN, not purple. So I had a muddy rust color at the hem where I’d hoped for a deep maroon violet.
After washing and drying, I was pleased overall with the results, even if I did have brown instead of violet. It was a bit bright though, and sometimes I don’t want to see that much vivid color first thing in the morning!
Well I didn’t have to worry about that, because the next time I washed it, I must have used hot water, because half of the dye ran out.
It is now a light salmon color fading into apricot at the top. I love it, even though it was completely different from what I’d planned.
My next project, a few months later, was to give some old shirts a new life. A couple of white cotton tees and an old Indian cotton tunic went into the machine with kelly green dye and a few drops of yellow.
The result was this medium green – it’s brighter than olive, darker than chartreuse, and I don’t know what to call it. But I like it. It’s especially nice that the rayon threads in the embroidery on the tunic picked up the dye so well. Yippee! New shirts!
Most recently I was looking for some background fabric for embroidery and I got some very helpful advice from my readers: linen and medium weight cotton are the best! I just happened to have some scraps of a natural-colored, medium weight cotton-linen blend. It’s a bit slubby and uneven, and considering my stitching, a little texture in the background can’t hurt. Of course I can’t leave well enough alone, so I decided to do a little dyeing.
I wanted a water-color effect in earth and sky shades, so that the background would look like a distant landscape behind the embroidery subject. Instead of attempting ombre again, I decided to paint the colors on. I diluted blue, teal, light green, dark green, and brown, ¼ teaspoon liquid dye to 1 cup of boiling water, and painted the watery dyes onto the fabric with regular bristle brushes. When the fabric was soaked with color, I wadded it up and put it into a plastic bag, put it in the microwave, and cooked it for 2 minutes on high.
After washing and drying, here are the two dyed pieces, compared with some undyed material. I think these will be ideal for my project.
A few lessons from my brief experience in fabric dyeing:
For dip-dyeing such as ombre or tie dye, arrange your work area so that you can hang your garment from something – a tree branch, a hook in the ceiling – so you don’t have to hold it up with your hand.
With Rit, the final color will be much lighter than it looks in the dyeing tub or on the wet garment. After washing, drying, and pressing, my colors were pale versions of the color on the dye packages.
Remember basic color theory! A color mixed with its complement will result in mud. Even applying a concentrated dark color over a light pastel will result in a blend of the two.
Expect the unexpected. It’s best to experiment with items you’re not invested in. If you must have a specific color, it might be better to consult with experts at a place like Dharma Trading to be sure you have the right formulation for your fabric.
And of course, follow all dye instructions and take sensible preventive measures such as wearing gloves and old clothes, and rinsing all sinks, washers, and tools immediately after using dye.
Have you dyed anything recently?
Katrina