The current fashion exhibit
is “Modern Spirit – Fashion of the 1920s.” Where do I even begin to describe
this incredible collection? The colors! Yes, the colors. Surprisingly subdued,
the colors in the room were mostly earthtones. Rust, camel, salmon-peach,
black, and ivory made up the majority. There were also a few dusky versions of
jewel tones like jade and plum, and dark blue appeared once in evening wear and
once in a suit. A brilliant scarlet red was the exception to all this restraint,
and it stood out in several areas of the exhibit.
Although no photos were allowed in the museum, many of the exhibit pieces are from the Arizona Costume Institute, and these images are from their online gallery.
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| 1928 dresses |
The textiles were utterly
amazing. Each piece was dripping with embroidery, beading, ruffles, rhinestones,
or sequins. Several of the dresses were covered with thousands of glass beads
individually sewn onto silk tulle or lace. How does the fabric bear that
weight? How does the garment survive 90 years?
 |
| Three evening dresses by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. 1928, 1925, 1925. |
One of the most
luxurious-looking effects was the voluminous, gathered and rolled velvet
collars of the evening coats, which were shaped very much like the Poiret
cocoon coat. Even the velvet was embellished with beads and embroidery, and in
one case, fur.
 |
| Folkwear Pattern 503, The Poiret Cocoon Coat. Source |
I could go on and on, but without photos, I feel I can’t really do justice to the other pieces.
I will leave you with the
last one that I do have a picture of, which was the simplest design, and also
my favorite. It’s a Vionnet, of red silk crepe chiffon. The narrow silver
edging is a lamé binding. For the sewists reading this, can you imagine trying
to stitch a long strip of lamé to a fluttery, tissue-thin expanse of silk, on the bias, without snagging, tearing,
shifting, or even creating the tiniest hole?
 |
| The epitome of elegance |
A history of Madeleine Vionnet
and her design techniques that we still use today is here. Also, Coletterie did a nice writeup
on Vionnet here
I was very inspired by my visit. I won't be sewing up any 20s-style evening gowns, but it certainly boosted my creativity.
What has been your source of creative inspiration lately?
Katrina
all photos from the Arizona Costume Institute, http://www.arizonacostumeinstitute.com/ACI/The_Collection.html
That looks like a wonderful exhibition. I agree, that red dress is amazing and certainly far beyond my sewing skills.
ReplyDeleteThe internet continues to be my main source of inspiration - sewing/knitting blogs a lot of the time. Oh, to be near the big museums, we miss them here in "the sticks".
We've got a pretty good situation here: about 15 minutes away from the arts district, plus it is nearly empty on weekends. Works for me!
DeleteGorgeous! You are right: the colors and fabrics are just amazing. The sad thing is, I can't imagine a museum of the future containing ANY of the clothes that I've seen in stores lately.....
ReplyDeleteThat gave me a laugh! "Hoodie, Abercrombie & Fitch, circa 2005."
DeleteThe question of "art" aside, none of today's manufactured garments seems to last more than a few years. Pitiful.
It's a shame sometimes, that museums don't allow photos. I say, share the beauty! I always ask, when in a store, if it's okay to take photos - and most people say yes, Some are enthusiastic. And I always wonder about those who say no. I think that selfish kind of hoarding mentality comes back to you. Why not share? Why live in fear that someone will copy or, I don't know what the fear is. Anyway - I can see the appeal and beautiful garments from your pics - but I know how someone like you, and us, who appreciate textiles and beading and details and perfection would love to capture those closer. Yes - the red dress is exquisite!
ReplyDeleteWhere am I finding inspiration lately? At nurseries - the plant and live greens and mistletoe and lilies and garlands and Christmas tree kind of nurseries. Especially those that have some decorated trees too. I could wander for hours. The smells! The sights! The visions of sugarplums...
Yes, I've run into that at restriction at art fairs as well. I think the artists are trying to protect their ideas, but wouldn't they want their creations to get more exposure, rather than less? I guess each person has a different perspective on it.
DeleteNurseries are wonderfully inpiring! Sometimes I think I want to get 20 trees and fill my house with elaborate decorations! Probably I should stay away from that particular source of inspiration. :)